Story of Ikat

 The Story Of Ikat

 

India can be termed as the homeland of myriad fabrics and textiles designed in luminous hues and patterns. One of these many textiles is Ikat - a handwoven fabric whose charm and versatility allows year-round comfort. However, there's more to it than meets the eye! Did you know that making Ikat is an extremely labour intensive and intricate process? Let's find out more!

 

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 History

The technique of making Ikat, known as ‘Ikkat’ has its origins from around the world, including South East Asia, South America and West Africa. It’s an ancient art that was derived from the Malay word, ‘Mengikat’ which means to tie. 19th & 20th-century evidence indicates that circa 200 years ago, Asia started producing high-quality ikat textiles.

 

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 Production

 

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The core fabrics used for producing ikat are silk & cotton, and the process used is called 'resist dyeing'. Warps and weft threads are interspersed such that the dye colours don't get mixed. These are then fastened on a wooden frame and put for dyeing. Then comes the intricate weaving method that converts the yarns into a beautiful fabric. Colours are derived from plants and trees that dye the fabric in eye-catching hues and patterns. The designs are made with vertical symmetry which results in a similar pattern on the sides.   

 

Types of Ikat Weaves

 

Warp Ikat

In warp ikat, the warp threads are dyed, and weft yarns are woven. The patterns are quite visible on the warp lay.

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Weft Ikat

Weft ikat method is more complex than warp ikat. Here, the weft threads are ikat dyed first, and the pattern starts appearing with the weaving process. This process forms erratic designs, and the yarns are re-adjusted, forming patterns deftly in horizontal lines.

 

Double Ikat

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Double Ikat is a labour and time intensive technique which is first hand dyed and then weaved. It’s done with both weft and warp yarns. Sarees like Pochampally and Puttapaka feature double ikat motifs.

 

Modern Day

In India, ikat is seen in three states - Gujarat, Odisha and Andhra Pradesh. Many high street fashion brands have utilised this fabric and replicated the same in their designs. Not limited to traditional outfits, ikat is now also used in home decor items like bedsheets, cushions and carpets.

 

Maintenance

 

A gentle hand wash in cold water is an ideal way to keep your ikat in pristine condition.

 

Trivia

1. Since the production process is quite complex, it has been termed as 'Poetry of the Loom.'

2. The bleed and blurry lines on ikat are intentional to make it look appealing. 

3. In ancient times, ikat was a symbol of wealth.

4. Japan has mastered the technique of Indigo ikat that no one has been able to imitate so far.

 

ikat blurry lines

 Source - (Blurry Lines of Ikat)